Trekking through the Khumbu: Day 9-11 Machermmo to Loubche via the Cho-La pass

Quick note before I continue with the trek: Kiersten and I leave for the Annapurna Sanctuary tomorrow. It should take around 10-days but we might try and find some side trips to do along the way. Because it's just a teahouse trek we won't be using porters or a guide. Keep an eye on the SPOT (see link on sidebar) if you are curious about our current location. Needless to say, I won't post anymore pictures until we get back. 

Day 9 - Machermmo (4470m) to Gokyo (4790) and up to Gokyo-Ri (5360m)
 Today was a fairly big day. We got up early (but not as early as we wanted because the lodge owners didn't want to get up at that time to make us breakfast) in order to make it from Machermmo all the way to the top of Gokyo-Ri before the clouds set in. The trail started out flat before climbing steeply up to 1st lake on the way to Gokyo. The views were amazing and the 3hr hike to Gokyo was very enjoyable.

On our way to the 1st lake

2nd lake

Along the way we found an awesome boulder problem (probably V2ish) but none of us were able to climb it in our hiking boots. Great problem though.

Kiersten

Making our way to 3rd lake

Gokyo village rests on the shores of 3rd lake. We stopped at a lodge briefly for tea and a snack before continuing up to Gokyo-Ri. Clouds were on the move so I tried to get up as fast as the elevation would let me. This was the first time elevation was really noticeable (for me at least) and it was quite apparent that we weren't climbing at sea level. Everything just takes a little more effort and you run out of breath much more easily.

Looking down part way up the Gokyo-Ri trail at Ngozumpa glacier, 3rrd lake, Cholatse and more

The classic panorama from the top of Gokyo-Ri

 I don't remember how long it to get to the top but I managed to get there about 20min before the clouds rolled in blocking our eastern view from the top.

Success for Kiersten!

Looking North-westish from the North end of Gokyo-Ri

North-western perspective off the top

 Even though we got to the top at noon, a bunch of us wanted to see if we could stay at the top until the sunset at 5:30pm. In order to kill time, Luke rounded up a bunch of us in order to construct the largest chortun (no idea how that word is spelt) ever seen on the top of Gokyo-Ri. It was a hard tough task but someone had to do it. Although we did succeed, we became too ambitious and our large pile of rocks came tumbling down. It was very depressing for us all. We should have started concentrating earlier on the structural integrity of the thing. Sarah thought it was because we didn't do a good enough job of filling in "all the little holes."

Right before collapse

Day 10 - Gokyo to Tagnag
Today was a very short day, only an hour or so of walking. All we had to do was cross the glacier east of Gokyo and walk a short distance to Tagnag: the last tiny village before the Cho-La pass. I got up at 7am to eat breakfast with everyone and then just went back to bed until lunch. It felt nice.

Day 11 - Tagnag to Loubche via the Cho-La pass
Got up at 3:45am for a 5:00am start in the dark. It was going to be a long day (but not the longest). Unfortunately we ended up leaving maybe 10min after a bunch of slower groups. Fortunately we had Gyaltzen Sherpa leading the way! He treated the first hour or so like the Tour de France, and we past all the slow groups early. At about 6:45am the sun started to come out and we made it to the top of a little ridge for the first glimpse of the Cho-La. From a distance it looks steep and imposing but the route reveals itself as you get closer.

Our first glimpse of the Cho-La in the distance

The pass

Cho-La (the low point) and Roger with half a face

Feeling the elevation

The climb was tiring, but more so for some than others. I was feeling really good but Kiersten says that it was the hardest day on the whole trek for her, even though Island Peak was longer and higher. She thinks it was because she felt the elevation more that day than any of the others and wasn't fully acclimatised. That being said it was really enjoyable. It was the first day that felt like a real mission, and of course the views were amazing.

Nearing the top

Crossing over the top

 After crossing over the top we walked along a glacier before scrambling down into the valley below. Fortunately it hadn't snowed the day before so there was a well worn path to follow through the glacier. At the end of the glacier we scrambled down some steep rocks below Cholatse, other mountains I can't name, and some beautiful rock walls.

Nearing the end of the glacier.

Looking east from the end of the glacier at Cholatse (among others)

We decided to stop for a break and do some big-wall free soloing. Gyaltzen led the way.

Looking back west, the Cho-La glacier is just out of sight on the far right

Cholatse

On our way down from the Cho-La and before re-entering the Khumbu valley, we had amazing views of Cholatse. It looks like a very stiff climb to say the least.

Gyaltzen contemplating Cholatse. While having summited Everest twice and having 14 total summits (I think, maybe more) in the Himalaya, he has yet to climb this one.

Ama-Dablam? Maybe

It was another hour walk once we reached the Khumbu valley to Loubche. Upon arrival I drank two beers at Canadian prices. It was worth it.