Monday, 6 February 2012

Udaipur continued + Bundi, Pushkar, Jodhpur

Udaipur

Our last day in Udaipur was not all that memorable. We packed up our gear, checked out of the hotel, and took the obligatory boat trip before wandering around town. Bascially we spent the day killing time until we had to get on the train to Bundi. The most interesting part of the day was when we stumbled across a gun manufacturing factory.  Being male I was naturally curious about how guns were manufactured so we decided to take a look inside. It turned out that the company made fully working replica antique guns and shipped them all around the world. The workers in the factory were super nice and kept handing us guns to hold and pose with.



Working replica-antique guns made by hand


Kiersten wanted to buy this and carry it for protection
Bundi
We arrived in the small town of Bundi at 11pm, checked into the nearest cheap guesthouse, and went to bed. We awoke the next morning to find ourselves in a wonderful little city where most of the buildings are painted pale blue and a massive fort towers overhead. We spent the morning exploring the massive fort(s), which there is actually two of within a massive walled complex. One of the forts is significantly older than the other and inhabitated by hundreds of monkeys. You are told in the guidebook it's a good idea to bring a stick for protection.

First fort

Courtyard in the first fort

Bundi from the fort

Painted dome ceiling in the fort

Elephant gate


Blue Bundi

Area of the fort traditionally reserved for women


One of the thousands of monkeys that patrol Bundi
Bundi was roughly populated as follows: Humans-50% Monkeys-15% Dogs-15% Cows-10% Pigs-10%. You were never out of view of some member of the animal kingdom. Monkeys were craftiest of the bunch and would hang around roof-top restaurants waiting for a chance to steal your chapati.

Sneaky as a snake

After exploring the forts we spent the rest of our short time in Bundi wandering through the small blue streets and alleyways of the city. Bundi's large market reminded me of Jaipur in the way shops were organized by the products they manufactured and sold. The large fruit and vegtable market was especially fun to wander through. We spent some time in a sliver shop, where I chewed paan with the owners and Kiersten browsed the wares.

Overall we really liked Bundi and could have probably spent a bit more time there. It had a lot of character and was less touristy and more laid back than some of the other places we had visited. We only spent two nights there but could have definitely stayed longer.

Like many things, bike shops in India are slightly different from bike shops at home.

Cookware block

The pink house had to be different

Silver shop

Piles of peppers

Fresh produce market

Sneaky little monkey waiting for his chance


Sweet Shop

Pushkar
Our next stop was the lake city of Pushkar, an old hippy hangout famous for its holy lake. Pushkar, located only 10km from the much larger city of Ajmer, was a small laid back town that, although even smaller than Bundi, attracted way more tourists. We stayed in a small quiet hotel a good distance away from Bundi's tourist strip and spent our time checking out the lake and relaxing. It seems like biggest reason Pushkar is so popular is because of its abundant supply of bhang and comfortable places to chill out. I didn't think it was as cool as Bundi but it was a nice place to relax in nonetheless.
The lake in Pushkar

Yummm sweets

More lake action

View of residential Pushkar from our hotel restaurant
Jodhpur
After just two nights in Pushkar we boarded yet another bus and traveled to Jodphur.  After sampling both modes of transportation, I have decided that while train travel is more comfortable, bus travel is both cheaper and more convenient. The bus is also arguably better for taking in views of the countryside. It does have its downsides though, the primary one being that government-run buses will pile as many people as humanly possible into the bus at one time to maximize profits. There were so many passengers cramed into the bus that  when we stopped I had to climb out of a window in order to quickly piss on the side of a building before the bus took off again.

Jodhpur is similar to a larger Bundi: a pale-blue city with a massive fort. We did the same thing we've done in all the fort cities, explored both the fort and the city. Both of which were suitably impressive in Jodhpur. The fort was well maintained and there was an audio-tour included in the fort entry price. I don't have much experience in the audio-tour scene, but I have to say this audio-tour was excellent. Awesome music and a eloquent British narrator. Jodhpur was another city I could have spent more time in.

View of the fort from our hotel

One of my favorite things about India: rooftop restaurants

More Rajasthani blueness




I could have taken a million pictures of this city




Kiersten with some cenotaphs and the fort in the background


Bus station action

Saturday, 28 January 2012

Horse Trek

After a brief stay in Udaipur, Kiersten and I set off on a 7-day horse trek through the Rajasthani countryside. We went with a company called "Krishna Ranch" which was recommended to us via Cassidy and Brianna who had ridden with the company on two separate occasions (Cass and Bri: everyone from the ranch still remembers you guys fondly and talked about how you helped make chapati). Ever since hearing about their ride Kiersten had been adamant that she wanted to go. I was slightly more reluctant. I don't really ride horses (the last time I was on one was over 12 years ago in the Yukon and that was only for a couple hours) so I was unsure of how 7 days in a saddle was going to treat me.

Krishna Ranch had a new baby horse in the stable
Krishna ranch is run by the super friendly Dinesh who usually accompanies the clients on rides. Unfortunately he had recently broke is collar-bone and was out of commission for this ride. Instead were guided by his brother (also super friendly) who was equally knowledgeable about the trails we were to follow.

After showing us which of their beautiful Marwari horses we were going to ride, we didn't waste much time before starting to ride. We were joined by two Swedish girls (Erica and Eda) who both had extensive horse riding experience. Because of my lack of ability and experience on horses, Kiersten, Erica, and Eda were given younger, more energetic horses, while I was given the most chilled out: a white horse named Nerani (translates to beauty queen). Kiersten was given a 4-year-old white horse named Paris, which she fell in love with during the course of the trip.

Lake just outside of Udaipur
It was probably that I had a well behaved horse, but I didn't find riding it all that complicated. She would stop when I wanted, go fast when I wanted, and I could turn her without much problem. The thing that took the most getting used to (probably due to my poor technique) was the constant bouncing when trotting. Anyways, horseback riding proved to be a great way to see the countryside and sample the local culture. I wasn't even too sore when I got back.

Cows with humps. My hypothesis when it comes to cows is that the larger the hump, the more prestige the cow receives among cowkind. These were prestigious cows.
Our path took us through small villages, along dry river beds, through an animal sanctuary, past massive forts, and across a mountain range ( I am very very hesitant to huge the term "mountain range" here after being to Nepal, these were more like hills).

We were looked after very well by the crew from Krishna ranch. They cooked up delicious vegetarian food for lunch and dinner (mostly dal, curries, rice, and chipati etc.) and provided fresh fruit and eggs for breakfast. We spent the night in large safari tents complete with comfortable beds. I slept really really well during the whole trip.


Kiersten in our tent

Roaming through India

Once we got a little ways out of Udaipur we became very popular among residents of the small villages we past through, especially with the children. After passing through village after village being greeted by everyone you saw, it was hard not to start feeling like a celebrity of sorts. Passing a school full of kids was always the most hilarious.

We stopped for tea in this village and the locals came out for a look

Me and my friendly little horse



Symmetrical horns are another sign of prestige

On this night we camped beside a school. Kiersten was dropping off her bags in the tent when half the school came out to greet her (their are a lot of people that picture cuts off and more running to see)
After setting up camp on day 3 our guides took us up to nearby Hindu temple to meet the Sadhu (holy man) and join in on the evening Puja. The temple (having seen many on this trip already) exceeded my expectations. It was set deep in the forest halfway up a hillside, a ways from the nearest town, and was surrounded by langur monkeys. Two Sadhus lived full time in the temple. When we arrived one of the Sadhus invited us into a small room in the temple and made us tea over an open fire and passed around a chillum for those who wanted to partake. Afterwards he showed us around the temple complex with its many statues, paintings, and large marijuana garden. We stood on the roof of one of the buildings for a while observing the monkeys when one of the Sadhus came out to feed them. You could tell he did this frequently as the monkeys rushed over for food. After a while I went down and fed the little fellas myself.

monkey wants more chapati


Field of baby marijuana plants


The day after visiting the temple we rode to nice campground near the Kumbhalgarh Fort. The fort, which is impressive in itself, is most famous for having the worlds second longest wall, surpassed only by the great wall of China.

Kumbhalgarh Fort

There is a small village in the fort surrounded by temples

The world's second longest wall (~35km)

Riding through the original entrance to the fort (there is a paved road that most people use now)


This is how many of the small villages get their water
After the fort we rode through the Khumbalgarh wildlife sanctuary, which was a pleasant break from travelling through villages. Although we didn't see much wildlife, we did spot a couple wild chickens, kingfishers, peacocks, parrots, and of course monkeys.








Some of the Krishna ranch crew who took very good care of us




Kiersten and Paris

Paris loved a good post-ride scratch

The crew
We ended our ride in a small place called Ranaktpur, famous for its temple. We visited the temple, which made entirely out of marble (including everything inside), and were very impressed.


Inside the temple at Ranakpur
After seven days of riding, I can't say that I was unhappy to get off the horse, but overall it was a fantastic trip. Kiersten, on the other hand, would have been happy to continue riding her horse back to Delhi if she had the chance. I think I will stick with my mountain bike.